efMESSENGERef ¨ The news letter for the Fifth Missouri ¨ March, April, May 2002 ¨   Wentzville event this weekend The event will be held on June 8-9, 2002, at Rotary Park, Wentzville, Missouri. It is sponsored by Wentzville Parks & Recreation and the Wentzville Area Historical Society. On July 15, 1861, four companies of the 2nd Missouri Infantry and two companies of the 8th Missouri Infantry left St. Louis by train, heading west on the North Missouri Railroad Line to Mexico, Missouri. Their mission was to join forces with Col. Franz Sigel. When the train was about six miles west of St. Charles, the Union troops found that they were entering an unfriendly part of the state as they began to take occasional gun fire. Upon arriving in Wentzville in the evening, the soldiers ate supper, then proceeded down the railroad line into the dark and rainy night. About three miles west of town, the train was attacked. Soldiers turned out of the train to fight, but their attackers could not be found. After reboarding the train, they returned to Wentzville where the wounded were treated at the Wentzville Hotel (present site of the West Allen Grill). The main room of the hotel was made into a temporary hospital. The next morning, the soldiers continued their journey. Again they were attacked. After repulsing there attacks by Missouri Bushwhackers, the train was able to proceed to link up with Sigel in Mexico. The actual number wounded or killed in this engagement is unknown. Some accounts place wounded at 30 and killed at 7. Cannon balls found near the railroad tracks in the area are on display at the Wentzville Historical Society's museum room at the Green Lantern Center. Amenities include: Sanitary facilities (some permanent as well as portable) Hay for horses Straw for bedding Drinking water Water for horses Firewood Powder rations for early registered artillery Westbound: Take I-70 West from STL (or Hwy 40 to I-70W) To Wentzville to the Pearce Blvd. Exit (Exit 208). Turn Right onto Wentzville Parkway. At West Meyer Road turn left. Continue to Rotary Park on the Right. Eastbound: Take I-70 East from Kansas City to Wentzville at the Pearce Blvd Exit (Exit 208). Turn Left onto Wentzville Parkway. At West Meyer Road turn left. Continue to Rotary Park on the Right. Money due for the Perryville national event Gentleman If you are planning to attend the national event at Perryville, please send me your check made out to the Fifth MO INF CSA in the amount of $10.00 for each person attending. I will be mailing the registration off by the end of June. You must pay prior to the event there will be no walk-ons allowed at the event. More information coming. Haversack Food I located this recipe off the internet some time ago. Turns out it not too bad, well for hardtack, that is. Ingredients are Flower, Salt, and Water (Add larva as you see fit) Directions are as follows, Dissolve the salt in the water and work into the flower with your hands. (just a little at a time) The dough should be firm and pliable, but not sticky or too dry. Flatten into a sheet about ¼ inch thick and cut into 3x3 inch squares. In each Square poke 16 holes about ½ inch apart ( the end of a bic pen works well) Bake in the oven until the edges are brown and the dough is hard. (Keep a close eye on this stage) Preheat the oven to 400° F For each cup of flower add one tsp of salt to water Mix water salt and flower just enough to blend Approx bake time is 20-25 min The longer you bake the harder it will be. Report Of action of Company A California MO. On the instance of the 15th, 16th and 17th of March I have the honor of reporting the actions of Company A Fifth Missouri Infantry. Members of The company were called in to service for the 1st time this year. Our company was stationed about one mile southwest of California on the farm land of the White family. On the evening of the 15th two of our fine Missouri boys had consumed a great quantity of contraband liquid and were in a quite jovial state until… A disagreement over the virtue of a lady known to both. Upon the intervention by 1st Sgt and Captian of the company the Matter was quelled and both partys were again friends. The rest of the night passed without incident less the cold night air. On the morning of the 16th the weather held quite favorably. The morning formation and roll call conducted by 1st Sergeant Hafley was said to be of excellent military order. The report to given to me read as follows: Present Capt L Dietzel, 1st Sgt S Hafley 2nd Sgt C Crane, Cpl D Plowman, Cpl M White, Pvt Bowling, Hafley, Hamilton, Couthon, Tacket, Johnson, Abernathy, Parker. After a fine breakfast of Country Ham and eggs and fresh bread of which Cpl M White had been able to forage from the surrounding farms the day of drill and formations was commenced. The company did not take long to become quite good at the drill but not without some minor corrections of which is left and which is right so on and so forth. About noon a forage run was completed and lunch was served. The drill was resumed in the afternoon with each of the non-commissioned officers taking the company out for drill in each of The command ranks. The afternoon drill was completed by Cpl Plowman with the bayonet exercise which was done quite nicely. I would say the company would scare off any northern yank which may dare to face the men of the Fifth MO.  The day ended with a chilly wind and some slight sleet. The fire was of great comfort and the night set on. On the morning of the 17th the boys were given reprieve from the drill and spent the time telling stories and reacquainting themselves. Camp was broken down in preparation for the long march to Carthage Mo to link up with the 1st Missouri Battalion on the 12th of April. I am, respectfully, Yr Most Obed’t Servant Capt. L Dietzel

On the instance April 12^th & 14th members of the Fifth Missouri Inf formed with the 1^st Missouri Battalion and near the city of Carthage MO. Present were Capt L Dietzel, 2^nd Sgt C Crane, Pvt M Couthron, Pvt Lorin Rouch, Pvt Rec J Jones. All the men of the Fifth MO who were ready for duty were reported in and the camp was set up by the late hours of the 12^th. A thick fog had settled in giving the 1^st Missouri Battalion camp a warm glow from the campfires. After a good night’s sleep reveley was sounded at 7am on the 13^th. Sgt Crane and Pvt J Jones were detailed as forages and proceeded to town to acquire rations for the next two days. The days drill and camp activities were commenced after morning parade. The day was spent drilling, stationed on guard duty and reviewing commands. As the late afternoon approached the rattle of thunder and heavy rain began to fall. The men of the Battalion were fed by the property owner at a cost of $6, ‘nuff said on that. After the meal Col Prater and the group of horseman from the mounted cowboy action shooting association put on a show free of charge. The rain had stopped and the sky began to clear by early evening. Colonel Prater called for a officers and NCO meeting at 9pm to which myself and Sgt Crane attended. The details of the meeting will be described in the following article “Colonels Announcement“. The boys of the Fifth enjoyed the warmth of the fire and some good old laughs. The 14^th was spent as the day before without much to note. The Colonel called the day at about noon and by one in the afternoon we were on the road back to our homes. This was a nice event for what it was “Drill”, it is always nice to get together with the Fifth MO.

Fifth Missouri web site

The web site is now back up and running in full force. The site has many of the same features as the old but with some new additions and a new look. This site, I hope, will help the communication between the membership of the Fifth. Please take a look at it and let me know if there is any changes of additions that may make it work better for us. The Password for the members area is still the same, if you do not know it email me an I will send it out to you. Please check the site from time to time due to new information being added that may not make the Messenger. Thanks, Dietzel

CLEANING THE CIVIL WAR MUSKET PART II
by Alan Bowling

Last time I covered some reasons as to why we should spend time and effort to clean our muskets. This month I will cover some methods that I use. The way I do it is by no means the only way and if you use different methods and they work then that is what is important.
I will discuss basically two methods: 1. Field Cleaning, 2. Cleaning at Home. I will also discuss some of the equipment I use.

1. Field Cleaning - This is the method I use to clean my musket when at an event where, especially at a campaign style event, I cannot carry a lot of cleaning gear. I have a small leather bag that goes in my knapsack in which I carry a screwdriver, a nipple wrench, a brass jag that is threaded to fit the rammer of my musket, a patch pulling worm in case I loose a patch in the bore, about 25 2 inch square cotton cleaning patches (enough for the average 2 day event) and a small bottle or spray bottle of oil, 2 or 3 pipe cleaners, a very small drill bit to clean carbon from the flash channel between the nipple and the breech of the barrel, and a small brass funnel. I also carry a clean bandana or bit of rag to wipe dew etc., from the surface of the musket if necessary.
To clean the musket I fill my tin cup with water and if possible heat it. Cold water will work if hot cannot be obtained. The hot water merely heats the barrel and helps evaporate any moisture that isn't wiped from the bore. Then, after ensuring that the musket isn't loaded and any spent cap is removed from the nipple I fold a cleaning patch in half and then in half again. I raise the hammer enough to place the patch over the nipple and lower the hammer on it. Draw the rammer and screw the brass cleaning jag on to it. I am a big advocate of the brass jag to clean with. I know that some muskets particularly the Enfield have a slot in the rammer that a patch can be inserted through. This will work but will not do near as good a job as a jag that is of the correct caliber for the musket. The jag will hold the patch against the bore and wipe it much more effectively. Jags are available from several sources such as Dixie Gun Works and Track of the Wolf for around three dollars, a good investment. Next pour enough water into the bore to fill it about 1/3 to 1/2 full, I use my small funnel here but it isn't absolutely necessary. You will note that the patch under the hammer keeps water from running out through the nipple. Place the palm of your hand over the muzzle and then shake or turn your musket to slosh the water up and down the bore for 8 or 10 seconds. Empty the water out and repeat until the water is coming out clean. Depending on how fouled the musket is it may take several times. Then hold the musket muzzle up, center a clean dry patch over the muzzle and push the jag down the bore. The patch will be held against the side of the bore by the jag. I push the patch to the breech then turn it to wipe the face of the breech ( note: be careful when you turn the rammer not to turn it in the direction that will unscrew the jag from the rod). Repeat this process until the patches come out dry and reasonably clean. Usually takes me three to six patches.
Take a clean patch that you have oiled and run it down the bore again twisting at the breech to wipe and oil the breech face. Next bring the musket to full cock remove the patch and take out the nipple or as it was called during the civil war, the cone.   I wipe off the cap flash from the barrel and cone lug area with the patch or my rag and also the cone (nipple). I then take my drill bit and run it into the flash channel between the cone seat and the breech to remove any carbon build up. I have worked on muskets in which the flash channel was almost completely blocked by carbon deposits so hard that I had to actually chuck my bit into a drill and drill it out. Also clean carbon from the nipple with a nipple pick or the drill bit. Blow through the nipple to clear moisture and the make sure it is clear. Finally run a pipe cleaner through the flash channel to dry it and wipe any remaining residue and replace the cone,
wipe the face of the hammer and you are done. Since I carry a Springfield I may also lightly oil the bright metal surfaces to prevent any surface rust from forming over night. Of course if you have a separate cleaning rod that is threaded to take the jag and you can reasonably bring it to the event then you can use it instead of your rammer to wipe the bore. You will note that I did not remove the barrel or lock from the stock. If the musket was carried in the rain or dropped in water then the barrel and lock should be removed and the metal and wood thoroughly dried. This is where you will need a screwdriver.
Cleaning at Home - To thoroughly clean the musket when I get home I use a similar method in that hot water is the main ingredient. First remove the barrel from the stock. To do this first remove the rammer then bring the lock to full cock and remove the cone (nipple). Next take your screwdriver and turn out the screw that holds the tang to the stock. Finally remove the barrel bands and turn the musket horizontal and barrel down on a soft surface. Raise the butt and gently bump with your hand if necessary until the barrel drops out. If you grasp the barrel by the muzzle and try to pry it out and it sticks at the breech will may break a piece out of the stock. Then remove the lock screws on the off side of the stock and remove the lock carefully from its mortise. Then I fill a bucket with enough hot water that when I stand the barrel in it muzzle up the the cone lug area of the breech is covered by at least a couple of inches of water. I also have handy a cup filled with hot water. Stand the barrel in the water and pour the cup of water down the barrel. Pull the barrel up enough that the water will run out the lug into the bucket. Yep it's really cruddy! Now stand the barrel back in the bucket take your cleaning rod that again has a proper caliber brass jag on it and center a patch over the muzzle and push the patch down the barrel. If the barrel is really badly fouled DO NOT try to force the jag and patch all the way to the breech in one push because if you do you will likely end up with the rod stuck in the barrel. Perhaps it will be stuck tight enough that you will need to clamp the end of the rod in a vise and pull the barrel off the rod. The reason for the cup of water down the barrel first is to soften the fouling and ease this problem but it is best to push the rod down in increments you will be able to feel when it is starting to stick, then back up and push down a little more until you reach the breech. Now pump the rod with the patch and jag up and down the bore. You will feel it actually sucking water into the breech and then when you push the rod down the water will be expelled from the breech with considerable force. Keep pumping until you have drawn a column of water all the way to the muzzle. By the way this is best done in the garage or outside as you can have water squirt out the muzzle. Likely your wife won't be happy with a bunch of grimy black rotten egg smelling water sprayed all over the kitchen or wherever. I go out on the deck. Now remove the rod from the bore and hold the barrel out of the water enough that whatever water is in the bore will drain out. I actually put my lips over the muzzle and blow the water out. Now dump the grimy water and refill the bucket and repeat. Likely the water will be reasonably clean this time if not repeat until it is. Use a clean patch each time you change the water. After the water is coming out clean remove the barrel drain any water (blow through), wipe any water from outside of barrel with a rag and run 2 or 3 clean dry patches through the bore to remove residue and somewhat dry the bore. At this point I usually run a patch soaked with my homemade bore solvent through the bore and then follow with clean dry patches until they come out clean and dry and then make several passes up and down the bore with a clean oily patch. Next I thoroughly clean the carbon from the barrel lug around the cone seat.
and the nipple itself. I recommend using a small brass or copper brush such as plumbers use to clean copper pipe before silver soldering joints or you can cheat as I do. I have a bench grinder with a fine wire wheel on one side a quick touch of the cone and barrel lug and they are clean. This is OK with my bright finished Springfield but will remove some bluing around the cone seat on an Enfield so you may prefer to carefully use a small brush. Then use the drill bit and pipe cleaner to clean and dry out the flash channel in the barrel lug.
When cone is clean I replace back in the barrel lug. Be careful not to cross thread. Now again using the brush and a solvent soaked patch clean all traces of carbon from the nose of the hammer. I now hold the lock in my hand with internals up and spray thoroughly with WD-40 and wipe off excess with a clean dry rag. This gets any grit or moisture out of the lock and lubricates at the same time. At this time you might want to check all lock screws including the hammer screw to make sure they haven't worked loose. They just have to be snug, don’t over tighten. You might actually impair the free functioning of the lock if you make them too tight. Now reassemble the musket in reverse order of disassembly. After the musket is assembled I thoroughly wipe off the entire musket to remove any dirt or other residue and finger prints from the barrel, stock and furniture. If there is any dirt etc., you might have to use a damp clean cloth to completely remove it. I then take a clean dry patch and fold in half and then in half again and place over the cone and lower the hammer on it. This will serve to keep any excess oil from running out the cone if you store your musket standing muzzle up. If the musket is going to be put away for a while I will examine it at least every two weeks for any signs of surface rust and will run a clean dry patch down the bore to wipe it out followed by several passes with a clean oily patch. This method has kept my muzzle loading muskets and rifles in fine shape for many years. Before I close a quick word about oils. Currently it is recognized that any lubricant that has a petroleum base will make black powder fouling more caked and hard. For many years I heard black powder shooters complain about this phenomena and many blamed the black powder being made today as not being as good as that available in the 18th and 19th centuries. I never had this trouble so didn't understand the problem. I was a purist and used only natural products such as beeswax and tallow for lubes and non petroleum based oils as was used originally. Now both muzzleloaders and black powder cartridge shooters recognize this fact. There are a number of no petroleum based lubes on the market such as T/C Bore Butter, Ox-Yoke Wonder Lube 1000, and oils like Ballistol. I use them. However since as a reenactor you don't fire live rounds I'm not sure this is as important. I just pass this on for information. If you have a favorite gun oil use it! Also I believe it is a good idea to have a good cleaning rod that has a good handle and is 3 or 4 inches longer than the barrel of your musket. This will make it much easier to remove a cranky stuck rod. They are available from several sources I will be glad to give specifics if you contact me and also my formula for homemade black powder bore solvent that works and costs probably no more than 25 cents for a 17 fl oz bottle.
See Ya at the next Event!!

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